This video is one I took the other day at the Shin Matsudo (新松戸) Festival near where I live in NW Chiba Prefecture. I hadn't been there in 5 years or more, but it was really nice to see how much it had changed for the better over the years. The last time I went it was pretty small with maybe a dance or so and some food stalls, but this year it was really big, there was a great variety of food (and cheap beer), and a bunch of neat dances.
This dance has to be the best I saw that day. If you have a few minutes, watch the video (best in HD). Their dance is kinda cool, and I really like the tempo and dance style change halfway through.
OK, so as we go into summer here in Japan, and you're trying to decide which of the many festivals to go to, I thought I'd provide a little advice from my long years in Japan. Now, I'm not going to tell you specifically which event to go to as there are just tons and tons of them all over the country. If you want to see a really cool, traditional one I would suggest the big festival in Asakusa near Sensoji where people put on armor and do a parade. Or you can see some of the big ones out across the country. But there are other posts for that (like this good post up at Japan Talk - 101 Best Japanese Festivals).
What I will talk about, instead, is what to do when you get there. So here goes, my little (not so serious) collection of lists about the best and worst of Japanese matsuri life.
First, what to wear? The festival is going to be damn hot, so it's important to choose the appropriate attire:
The Best Things to Wear at a Japanese Festival
3. A happi/yukata: Summer traditional Japanese garb. The happi is a short vest-esque coat. The yukata is like a summer kimono. Very cool, and you also look stylin. For pics, check here or here (for some reason both searches only show women, but they are for men also). This option can be a bit costly but the great thing is that after buying one, you then own them forever.2. Pajamas: OK, sorry, they're actually called jinbei, but they essentially are really cool pajama-like pants and shirts that are considered OK to wear outside. Popular with older men, they're also worn by women, too, and tell everyone around you that you've come to do some serious relaxing. Put on a straw hat and you're aura of easygoing will be almost overpowering.
1. Normal Clothes (Duh?): Maybe it's just me, but the best way to relax and enjoy a festival is to just wear something light and cool. Put on a pair of shorts and some shades. Just keep it cool and IMO limit the number of layers. It's insanely humid here; the last thing you want is to be hauled away by a paramedic after you get dehydrated drinking too much beer.
And (this one's easy):
What Not to Wear
3. Cosplay: Sorry, it's just too damn hot. Yes, some of the dancers may look like characters out of Naruto, but they have permission. You don't.2. Muscle Shirts: Unless you have the muscles... and no gut. Then I'm OK with it.
1. Nothing: Er, I mean don't take off your shirt. Yes, it's hot, but show a little class. Japan is not very much of a no-shirts friendly country. If you're that hot go to a park or go to the beach, but in town taking clothes off here is pretty much a no no.
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OK, now for the next set:
The Best Foods to Eat at a Japanese Festival
3. Yakitori (fried chicken on skewers): Cooked usually on a grill, these mouth watering bites of pure chickeny goodness are a real good way to start off the festival, and will make you crave more, as well as crave some serious beer to wash them down. Don't be surprised if you have to wait in line a bit, as they're also super popular.2. Doner Kebab: If you can, wrap your hands around one of these pitas filled with greasy, spicy delicious meat. Originally you'd only see these Turkish sandwiches in little shops around Tokyo, but now they are pretty common at festivals even out in the middle of nowhere.
1. Takoyaki: The king of Japanese summer food - octopus balls cooked in batter with sweet sauce, mayo and various toppings - you can find them at about any summer event and they usually aren't so greasy, and are pretty easy to make, meaning they're one of the only festival foods that you can always count on. If you happen to be in southern Japan like especially Osaka, they're even better.
And the Worst Festival Foods
3. Ringo Ame: Like a candy apple, except the coating is sickly sweet. They look great but unless you're a serious fan of apples or tooth decay you will give up in frustration. I don't think I've ever actually seen someone finish one of these red balls of despair.2. Cotton Candy (wata ame): What a ripoff. OK, they're not bad per se, just you get almost nothing and the little puffs of sugary candy tend to cost more than a whole meal at some festivals.
1. Grilled Meats (other than chicken): There are tons of varieties - you see steak chunks, rolls of bacon (that I saw this Sunday, ick), or plump sausages cooking about every 15 feet at most festivals. They all smell really good, look good, but when you wait in line to buy one there's always a little voice inside telling you it's a mistake... Listen to that voice! Nothing but pain and misery can come from eating it.
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OK, so you're at the festival, enjoying yourself. There are a ton of people around you, it's swelteringly hot and almost anyone of age (plus a few extras) are getting drunk. So what's there to do now that you're trapped in festival land? I'll finish this post with one last list:
The Best Things to Do at a Festival (When You're a Bit Drunk)
3. Watch the dancers. This one is easy. It requires little movement, no coordination, and the best part is that any dance troupe seems awesome after your fifth Zema.2. Dance! Not as obvious, and you can't always join in, but many of the big fests end up with one final dance for everyone. It's a lot of fun, trust me, especially when you've had a bit. No one expects you to be perfect or even come close to doing the right moves. Just get out there and enjoy yourself.
1. Have another beer: Japan is a land of excuses to get drunk in public, but this one I can really get behind. The winter holidays and Golden Week are long gone, and unless you work in education or some other special field, you probably won't get much time off for the summer anyway, so enjoy yourself when you can. Have a beer or three. And especially, have them with good friends. The memories I've made over the years at festivals are some of my best since I've come here. OK, maybe you don't even need that extra beer. Just enjoy yourself and be with people you care about. That's what festivals are about anyway.
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OK, I'm off for a while now. Heading off to much cooler climes. But I'll try to post when I can.
So enjoy the summer. Have some watermelon, crushed ice, and especially some takoyaki.
And try to relax a bit.
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